DTF puts full-colour artwork onto cotton, polyester, blends and dark garments with no pre-treatment and no weeding. It is not magic, though — and the running costs decide whether it pays.

Most people buy the printer and treat the rest as accessories. In practice, film, powder and the cure cause more failed transfers than the machine ever does.
A modified or purpose-built inkjet laying CMYK plus a heavy white underbase onto film. White ink handling is what separates a good machine from a headache.
PET transfer film, hot or cold peel. Cheap film curls, releases badly and wastes more in reprints than it ever saved.
Adhesive powder applied to wet ink, then cured. Grade and particle size decide how the transfer feels and how well it survives a wash.
A shaker-and-oven unit or a manual cure. Under-cured powder peels; over-cured film goes brittle. This step is where most faults start.
Even pressure and accurate temperature matter more than platen size. An unevenly heating press ruins good transfers.
White ink settles and clogs. Daily circulation, capping-station cleaning and a proper shutdown routine are the whole job.
Every fault has a step it belongs to. Knowing which one saves hours of guessing.
Artwork prepared with the white underbase generated correctly — the single biggest cause of poor transfers is a bad underbase.
Colour and white printed onto PET film in one pass, mirrored ready for transfer.
Adhesive powder applied to the wet white ink and the excess shaken off so edges stay clean.
Melted to a smooth, tacky finish — not baked hard. The transfer is now shelf-stable and can be stored.
Heat-pressed onto the garment, peeled hot or cold depending on the film, then given a second press to set it.

Garment types, artwork, and roughly how many a week. That is enough for us to tell you whether DTF fits, and what a realistic setup looks like.